Category Archives: Adventure travel

Adventure Travel

Who Was She?

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I was driving alone from Abu Dhabi to Dubai on a Friday night in 1983-84.  It is a distance of 130 kms and a 1.5 hour drive.  At that time, the stretch of about 100 km from the outskirts of Abudhabi to Dubai World Trade Centre, was an isolated route.  The roads hardly had anything other than speeding cars plying at over 140km/hr.  It is a right-side-drive system in that part of the world.  That Friday night, I had a peculiar experience.

After about 20 kms from Abudhabi, I saw a lady standing on the roadside with her right thumb pointing up for a lift to Dubai.  She was wearing bangles made of white gold with shining studded diamonds.  Light from the headlights of the car reflected the brightness of the diamonds when she held her hand up for a lift.

She was wearing a white chudidar-kurta.  White – as white as you can imagine.  Shiny silk fabric. Silky white – neck to toe.  No part of the body were exposed except her hands.  I could not trace the face. I don’t remember it it was hollow at that time!

Normally, I would not give a lift to any one on that isolated route. But I don’t know why, I stopped the car to my right.  Though my car doors were auto-locked, she opened the door. It opened absolutely softly.  She sat in.  I continued driving.

She sat quietly. After a while I asked some question. She did not answer.  While I was still driving, I glanced towards her seat. She was wearing white socks, snow white, shiny sandles.

Funnily because I saw her legs resting on the neck support at the top of the seat next to me.  I quickly realised, it might not be really funny.  Where had her head gone?  It was at the bottom of the seat, with top of her bald head covered with a white scarf resting on the foot-carpet.

I glanced again, this time top to bottom of the seat.  It was clear to me she was sitting upside down.  Bald head, a long, long nose, eyes deep inside and chin projecting out!  There was certainly something seriously wrong!

I had the same thoughts you are having now.  I need to protect myself!

I had to take a pre-emptive step!  Who else could be better than Lord Hanuman in such situations?  In my mind, I started chanting Hanuman Chalisa. “Bhoot Pisacha nikata nahi ave, Mahavir jab naam sunave etc.”.  (If you chant Lord Hanuman’s name, ghosts will stay away.)

After a while, I glanced at her seat, though not at her.  She was still there.  I already had her company for about 50km.   No communication and it looked as if she was waiting for an opportunity to do something harmful.

I collected all my strength and started chanting again Hanuman Chalisa, this time loudly.  I kept repeating the loud chant.  After a while, the car stopped on the road side!  Waah Hanumanji!  I don’t remember having turned the steering nor did I remember applying the brakes.  But the car stopped decently, on the side of the road. She opened the door, got down, slowly walked away and after a couple of steps she disappeared.

Can someone tell me – Who Was She?

Written: Badri Baldawa
Edited: Meeta Kabra

 

 

Boarding A Train – An Adventure !

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Boarding a train in 1960s and 70s was not less than an adventure.

There was no reservation system. Seating was on first come, first serve basis like it was in aircrafts until two decades ago.

Boarding a train in peak season had to be well planned, particularly if you were travelling in a group. The entire group, young and old, would put all their experience and thinking caps on. There’d be discussions, debates, extrapolations to finally arrive at a location on the platform where the probability of getting comfortable seats was higher.

Those who were not so smart, the elderly, ladies and children were given charge of the baggage. The plan was to peep through the windows on the train’s arrival and at a lightning speed place a baggage or a handkerchief at an empty spot, vacated by the passenger getting down at that station. Next, you’d crawl inside through the window and occupy whatever seat was available. In case the window seat is not vacant, request the window passenger to place some belonging of yours on the closest vacant seat.

Once inside the compartment, while some members got busy conquering more seats, others would get the baggage in.  The boss-like ladies and the elderly members of the group were given first preference to sit.  Ah, what an exercise!  One could see the triumph on their faces!

During absolute top peak season, one was considered lucky if he found a place to sit in front of the washrooms the entire night of travel.  One would put his head on whatever support available; it could be his own knees, a suitcase placed in front, or the neighbour’s shoulders.

If not crowded, you could spread your legs on the bench and sleep.  On the upper side in the compartment, there were racks to hold luggage. Those who were more courageous would dump the baggage and sleep on the racks.

There could be a one-by-two system too. On the racks, either you sleep by turn or two people could sleep together with heads in opposite directions!

With all the art and technique you possess, sometimes you still wouldn’t find a seat. Then, it’s time to use your diplomacy!  Depends how good you are!  Do it in three stages.  First, through the window or door, somehow manage to enter inside the compartment and get a place to stand.  Next, pass on a nice smile to the person already sitting followed by some friendly talk.  Finally, encroach by requesting him to give away a part of his seat.  Mission successful! People would be generous probably because that was the way he got his seat at the earlier station!

Author: Badri Baldawa

Editor: Meeta Kabra

The “Soonya” state of Mind at Ganges

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1 April 2014.  I was at theof River Ganges, at Rishikesh, Vaan Prastha Ghat.

People from various philosophies visit this place.  Rush of believers flood for Ganga Snaan (a dip in the Holy Ganges). After my Yoga class in the morning from 6.30 to 8.00am, I had my breakfast and came down to the ghat for a dip.

Nice, clean water.   Chilling, cold, freshly diluted ice. The current was strong.  It was difficult to stand even on the bank as you feel that you would drown with the strong flow. Heavy iron chains are provided at this bank so that one can hold the chain tight and take a dip in the river.  Still you are afraid that you will drown.

Normally, I dip myself 3 or 5 times in the Ganges.  But I recollected an interesting experience my niece Nirmala (Naru) narrated.  She went for her bath at Rishikesh, Geeta Bhavan #1 ghat.  Close to her was a lady from Eastern Europe taking her dips too.  As is her habit, Naru started talking to the European lady in English.  The lady replied in Hindi and told Naru ‘Dubki poora lena.  Shir aur shir ke hairs bhi bhigana”  (Take the dip properly, your head and hair should go in too). Naru was surprised with her reply in Hindi and said: “Kaan meh problem.” (I have a problem in my ears).  The lady said ‘haan kaan meh paani jata.’ (Yes, the water does go in the ears.)

After 5 dips Naru stopped.  The lady said, “Nahin Nahin, gyarah dubki lena.’  (No-no, you should dip yourself 11 times). When Naru said it was enough for her, the lady insisted, “nahin, nahin 11 lena.  Mai count karegi .”  (no-no, 11 times. I will count.) She forced Naru to continue and started counting dips “six raam raam, “seven raam raam” and continued till 11 dips were completed.

Today, I was afraid that I had come alone. I double checked to see that I am  safe.  I held the chain with as strong a grip as possible.  I had my first dip, second and third.  Normally I feel satisfied, rather I feel tired and complete at 3 dips. But then I recollected the instance Naru had narrated. I took 11 dips!

I do not know whether there is any logic behind this count of 11, but the last 5-6 dips gave me a thrill and pleasure which I have never experienced before. I didn’t know if there was anything surviving or existing in this universe. It was absolute “Soonya” (zero) state of mind.  Nothing but energy flowed in.

It is amazing how devoted foreigners are to learn, understand our traditions and implement them.  Some of them study our traditions and philosophy deep enough, that they are qualified to teach us our own traditions and learning from our scriptures.

Thereafter every time I was in for river bath, after The Float, I took 11 dips and enjoyed getting  in “Soonya” state of mind.

Author: Badri Baldawa

Edited: Meeta Kabra

Ganges – the Positive Energy

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April 2014 takes me to the Ghat (banks) of River Ganga at Rishikesh.

As I was changing my clothes at the steps of the Parmarth Niketan Ghat, after bathing in the Ganges, I noticed a foreign couple stepping in on the Ghat. The guy was well built. His lady friend was sitting on the steps while he went forward for a dip in the Ganges.

I thought of warning him about the strong current and that it might not be safest to enter without holding a chain. As he was about to enter his back was towards me. I saw his fair-coloured back full of tattoos. A prominent one amongst them was a large “OM”. I don’t know why, the large tattoo on his back made me feel that there was no need to warn him, as somehow that made him mature enough to understand it. Instead, I chose to watch him enter the river without holding onto the chain. Mentally, I started working out what would be the best way to save him, just in case he is pulled by the current.

He entered the river and its strong flow of water. He balanced well for a few steps into the river. He stood facing East, the direction from which the Ganges was flowing towards him. He bent forward, put his feet back and in a matter of seconds took a sleeping position. He went under the water level a couple of times, each time for a minute or two. His head was towards the East.

Clean, clear transparent water was flowing over his head, back, hips, and legs; flowing away from his feet. I had been observing over the last few days, the different ways in which people took a dip in the super-cold Ganges. However, the feelings was different as I saw this man takes his dips.

After the dip, the guy walked up to sit next to his companion. I could not resist and disturbed him.

The first obvious question was, “Where are you from?” He said “I belong to the entire world. I have no permanent home to say this is where I come from and this is where I live.” For the last seven years he had traveled between Russia, Nepal and India, most of which he had spent in Nepal and India. Though he liked Nepal, he liked India the most and would prefer and love to stay in India.” To me, it looked like he was born in one of the countries from the Soviet Union. I would call him Russian for easy identification.

Just at that time, someone, a simple Indian with his family, who was also keenly watching this foreigner with an “OM” tattoo, interrupted.

He asked the foreigner, “Excuse me. Can I ask you where did you get this Om tattoo?” The foreigner replied, “It is irrelevant, where I got it done. What is relevant is the presence of Om vibrations on my back all the time”.

The Indian said his interest was to know whether it is a temporary marked OM or etched permanently. He said “Nothing is permanent in the world, but this ‘Om’ is. This will be with me as long as my body lives. Om will stay as long as my body stays in this universe.”

The Indian said “I have some expertise and knowledge in Tattoos. I cannot believe how artistic and beautiful this one is. Origin of Om is in India, but such quality tattooing in my opinion cannot be done anywhere in India. If at all it has been done in India, I would be interested to know where”.

The visitor replied, “One of my friends in Russia is a tattoo artist and we were together for some time. He had tattooed in Russia.” He further explained, “In their early literature, Russians had reference of Om in their meditation. Om is also well-accepted and respected in Russia. There are many similarities in the Russian and Indian cultures.”

The discussions then developed to how the Russians know so well about “OM” whereas it is supposed to have originated and developed from India. The Russian said “OM” is equally well-known in Russian countries as per their scriptures (equivalent to the vedas).

They went on to discuss that long time back, India and Russia did not have a border between them. Only later, politics separated them. Hence most of the culture and traditions between India and Russia are the same. It is because the cultures, attitudes, feelings and thinking are similar that Indians and Russians are so fond of each other.

I remembered my early years when India, under Lal Bahadur Shastri and Indira Gandhi as the Prime Ministers, was very close to Russia. During war against Pakistan and China, while super power USA supported the latter, the other super power Russia supported India. That Russia might enter the game to support India kept USA away from joining Pakistan and China.

As these thoughts crossed my mind, I asked the Russian what I really wanted to ask, “I really get worried and unstable when I enter the strong water current of the river. How come you could manage so easily and reach a comfortable position.” He said it was easy. The water had a high current flow but was not very deep. He bent forward so that he could hold some stones. Once he got that hold, it was all easy. He said he lied down for a purpose. I asked him “purpose?”. What could be the purpose except that people go down to take a dip in anticipation of washing their sins and going towards Moksha. His answer was surprising.

He said, “The flow of water is nothing but energy. More so with River Ganga. Amongst water flows, it is a proven fact that River Ganges has the highest flow of energy. So when I lie down in the water with head towards the inflow of water current, the energy is passing through the top of my head, through the face, neck, shoulders, arms, back, spine, legs and finally through my feet. By the time water passes through the feet, the entire body is purified; the negatives drain out and new positive energy flows in the body. This is the energy which gives ‘life’ to the body which otherwise is just a skeleton.”

Author: Badri Baldawa
Editor:  Meeta Kabra

Define Contentment

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A day at Ganges Ghat at Rishikesh in April 2014.

Just as I was about to enter the river for my bath, I saw one of the sadhu pandits (priest) wearing a white handloom dhoti, just finishing his bath.  I knew he was going to chant Hanuman Chalisa (a prayer for Lord Hanuman).  I went to him to say “Please wait for me to complete my bath, we will sing Hanuman Chalisa together”.  He did not speak.  I took my 11 dips and sat next to him.  We recited Hanuman Chalisa together.

He was the same sant (saint) who I saw two days ago at the river side.  That day, I obseved him as he had his bath while chanting all type of Mantras. He then, sat on the steps and chanted the Hanuman Chalisa with a lovely tune.  I was at peace of mind and unknowingly joined him. I thoroughly enjoyed the vibrations. I waited till he completed his jaaps (chants) and was inquisitive to know more about him.

He was about 60 years old and from a village in Bihar.  He lost his parents long ago.  He did not marry and had no relatives, except for a brother and a nephew, who he had no contact with. He stayed in a temple in his village and was the caretaker.  He traveled a lot.  He reached Haridwar by train and expected to stay in Rishikesh for 4-5 days before moving to other places.  He was planning on reaching Badrinath by foot and expected to reach there by mid-May 2014.  On his way, if he feels like it, if he finds it interesting, he’d stay at any place for 4-5 days.

No plans, no itinerary, no reservations for accommodation, no worry about food, no expense budget.  He appeared a fully content soul.  He would stay in any Ashram which wouldn’t mind giving him some space to sleep, even if it means open space in very cold weather.  He’d eat at any of the Ashrams which had complimentary meal arrangements for Sadhus. In case he didn’t get food, he said, he wouldn’t feel hungry; he felt hungry only when he saw food and not otherwise.  He had just a dhoti and a spare langot for clothing, which he would wash every day and use.

We, on the other hand, would not bother making travel plans unless we have confirmed reservations, comfortable place to stay, planned arrangements to eat and a load of warm and fancy clothes.  Here was a soul who had full mental satisfaction even though he did not have any financial for expenses, accommodation, food arrangements or in fact any materialistic possessions!

Now look at this.  Just on the way to Rishikesh, I lost my iphone.  It was pinched by someone at Delhi station when it was kept for charging from right under our nose.  All my information, contact details, data was lost with the phone.  I was very upset.  I felt very sad.  Losing that phone was almost as if I had lost one of my beloved ones. Is such an attachment necessary?  It is bad that we have become so dependant. How did we manage when cell phones did not exist?  We probably had better mental peace and less dependency on an external non-living tool? Just compare that to the Sadhu who wasn’t even dependent on living beings and was still happy and content.

Later, I went for a trek from Rishikesh to the Neelkanth mountain.  This is located in the centre of a valley, surrounded by mountains all around. It was a circuit trek of about 25 km including a steep climb of about 3000 feet over a distance of 12-13 km.

This is said to be the place where Lord Shiva took his salvation after he consumed the poison, during the Samudra Manthan – to save the universe from destruction, Shiva retained the poison and did not allow it to go down his throat.  It created such heat that he had to rest in a cool place.  That place was Neelkanth.

(Neelkanth is the same place where it is whispered that Mrs. Jasodaben, the wife of the BJP nominee Mr. Narendra Modi is presently stationed  in an Ashram.)

This place could be visited by a vehicle.  But we preferred to trek. No doubt it was a hard trek.  Since I lost my cell phone, I carried my wife’s phone.  It was for the loved ones at home to know our whereabouts.  But every time there was a call, it disturbed the peace and trek thrills. When I had such a wonderful time with nature in wonderful company of two daughter-like grand nieces, Archana and Krishna, any call was a disturbance.  We gain a lot from modern gadgets, but we lose a lot too!

I wondered if it was really necessary that I buy a new cell phone to live? Since I lost my phone, was this an opportunity to stay without it?  I am wondering whether I should buy a phone at all?  Can’t I get on without depending on it?  Will I not be happier without a cell phone?  Why not try at least for a few months to see what difference it makes?

Author: Badri Baldawa                                                      Editor: Meeta Kabra