Tag Archives: Ganges

Road to London # 7 – The Route Across India

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In continuation of earlier blog RTL # 6 – Family consent

All the expedition participants have to assemble at the exit point from India,  Imphal, Manipur.  This is where we will leave India on 17th April, 2017.

This means, before crossing the Indian border, I have to drive across India from Mumbai which is on the west coast to almost the eastern end of India – crossing 10 Indian States.  A straight drive from Mumbai to Imphal is about 3,300 kilometers and can be done in about 10-12 days.  Google maps showed our initial route within India as:

I haven’t travelled to the North Eastern States popularly known as “Seven Sister States of India”. Or their brother, Sikkim.  I haven’t been to Bhutan either.  Since I have the luxury of a car while driving to those North Eastern states, we decided as well visit some interesting places like Darjeeling, Sikkim, Bhutan, Kaziranga National Park on our way to Imphal.   Some of these places need an extra stay of at least one day each. This adds to 17 days and 4,000kms drive.

As we were finalizing the itinerary, Pushpa revealed that it was her childhood dream to visit Cherrapunjee, the wettest place in India.  I would like to spend the rest of my life with her!   A good husband that I am, I had no option but to add Cherrapunjee to the itinerary.

A few hours from Cherrapunjee is the cleanest village in Asia – Mawlynnong.   There are many other interesting places around like unusual caves, various natural earth formations, double decker bridges naturally-formed out of tree stems and multi-stage waterfalls.  The world famous Shillong also falls on this route.   How can you be so close and miss all of that? Another 3 days and 400 kilometers.

Just to make sure that I do not miss any interesting places on the route, I collected tourist maps and literature of each of the states I would be passing through.  I noticed that there are certain  other important places on this route.

Deoghar in Jharkhand drew my special attention.  There are twelve religiously auspicious Jyotirling locations in India.  We had visited all of them except Baba Baidyanath at Deoghar, at the extreme east end of Jharkhand.  We are not sure when we will visit that area again.   We added Deoghar.   This takes us very close to Varanasi on the Ganges, Gaya-Bodhgaya where Lord Buddha attained enlightenment, Sarnath where Lord Buddha delivered his first sermon,  Jalmahal, Pavapuri where Lord Mahavira attained salvation,  Nalanda University claimed to be the first university in the world.  You got it right. I could not ignore any of these places when they mean just 3-4 more days.  By increasing our daily drive we should be able to squeeze in these places with 21 days to Imphal.

There are many more interesting places, but I froze it to 21 days. For now!   The map at this staged looked like:

                                                                                                To be contd…………...

Written : Badri Baldawa

Edited  : Meeta Kabra

 

Triveni Tricks

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During my articleship, I was on an audit of a Sugar factory near Lucknow.  I had heard a lot about Triveni Sangam, a point where three rivers meet in Allahabad. Rivers Ganga and Yamuna meet and the undercurrents of Saraswati river joins the flow at this junction. For Hindus, a dip at this junction, is considered very auspicious and believed to liberate one of all sins.  Since, the office I was at was very close to this place, I wanted to experience this dip.

The current is extremely strong at the point where the 3 rivers meet as it is at the center of the three rivers. A boat ride that is a few minutes long, takes you to the meeting point. A group of other boats lowers a wooden plank from their sides. These planks are supported by bamboos.

I was sharing a boat with a total of 8 passengers.  While the boat was taking us to the Sangam, a boy from one of the smaller boats approached us and offered to show us a miracle.

He said (in Hindi, of course!), “Sir, look at this current of the two rivers Ganga and Jamuna.  You throw a five or ten rupee note in the river, I will swim and bring it back.  Tip me Re 1 if you are impressed.”  This was 1967, so the purchasing power of Rs.10 was like that of today’s Rs.1,000.  And Rs.10 from each passenger would make a reasonable amount.

The river’s current was extremely strong.  To catch a paper flowing in the river and bringing it back against the current was just unbelievable.  Everyone in the boat was impressed with the offer and were willing to test this little boy.

I said, “I will tip you of Rs.5 instead of Re.1, but you will have to throw your own currency note, not mine.”  The boy completely ignored me.  The other guys from our boat threw their currency notes.  The youngster swam in such a strong current and collected the notes. It was a real feat and we appreciated it.

But he never returned!  He just disappeared!  On my return, I could see the same boy making the same proposal to another boat sailing towards the Sangam.

Ah, I did not lose my money!

This small incident in life made me wonder. Others will continuously judge you according to their own perceptions but are you able to judge others appropriately when they try to take advantage of you?

 

Written : Badri Baldawa

Edited  : Meeta Kabra

Be Careful Of Ravans In Ram’s Land

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“Why do people carry gold jewelry when they travel?”  I remember asking my dad as a child.  Around 1960s, it was fashionable for people to wear gold ornaments while traveling, especially women.  Dad’s reply was interesting.

“It is better to have a gold ring or a small chain when you travel. For any reason, if one dies while traveling alone, he carries something which can be used to, at the very least perform the last rites. That way the body is not at the mercy of others’ charity.”

Those were the times when fast communication was almost non-existent, travel facilities were minimal, visiting cards were not prevalent and neither were ID cards.  If one died and was not identified, a group of people strangers would perform cremation formalities.

Then dad added, “But while traveling never carry jewelry more than the basic minimum.  Never carry it to show off”.

A few years later, I was at the bank of River Ganges in Benaras (Kashi/Varnasi).  I was on an audit at Fertilizer Corp of India, Sindri near Dhanbad.  This is another popular, important pious place for Hindus. For the weekend, I decided to visit Benaras and bathe in the River Ganges.

It was January and the water was extremely cold.  It was impossible for me to swim in the strong current of the River.  The alternative was to go some steps into the river and take a few quick dips. It needed courage to dip in the ice-cold water, so early in the morning.

As I approached the river, there were two guys sitting with a reasonably sized metal safe and a receipt book. They had a signboard saying:

 “Beware of Thieves.

Government appointed custodian for valuables.

Free Service.

Please collect receipt for your deposits.”

I had left my money at the hotel and carried only a few rupees with me.  However, I forgot to take my wrist watch and gold chain off.  The chain was a little long, so it was possible for it slip out when I took a dip in the water. I thought it a better idea to leave it with these official custodians.

While I was considering, a South Indian couple with two children, aged approximately 8-10 were with the custodians.  They probably read the board.  They deposited all their jewelry and valuables including the cash they had and collected the receipt.

One of those two guys at the locker came running to me to scare me. He told me that there were a lot of thefts at the riverbank while tourists bathed in the river. He said it was for my good that he was suggesting that I deposit all my valuables with them.  I began to wonder why a Government official would invite and insist.

I took an intuitive decision not to leave anything with them. I told them I had nothing much to deposit and carried on to the river.

Somehow, after seeing the custodian, I was suspicious about the entire place.  I suspected someone would take my clothes too, which carried some cash, watch and my gold chain.  In case it did happen, what would I have on me when I went back to the hotel?  I had to be careful.

I left my shirt and pant on one of the steps close to the bank of the river. I took only a few steps till I was about 3-4ft in the water. I could keep an eye on my clothes. I chose to take a few dips rather than a small swim. That way I could see my belongings after every dip, every few seconds.

The water was freezing cold and so was the winter weather. I took my first dip and in almost unconsciously looked at my clothes to make sure that they were still there. I did this after every one of the 7 dips I took.

Normally, when we dip in the river, we are supposed to sync our thoughts with the Almighty, the river Goddess and pray.  Unfortunately, I was just thinking about my clothes. Not good! I decided to be better prepared when I visited again in the evening.

On my way back, I saw a family of four crying and beating their chest.  I walked to them and asked them why they were upset. Did something drastic and wrong happen while they bathed? When I approached them, I recognized that this was the same family I had seen near the custodians before I left for my bath.

Holding the receipt, they, including the 2 kids, were crying and told me in Telugu (which I knew well), “Oh, we lost everything. We are doomed.  We deposited all our ornaments and cash with the depositors.  They just disappeared with their vault.  We don’t have money even to feed our children nor to buy tickets to get back home!”  A respectable family was left to beg for charity from other visitors there.  A pitiful scene.

I was happy that I did not bank my valuables with them.  Since multiple IDs are now available, I make it a point not to carry unnecessary valuables while traveling and check the genuineness of operators with the hotel authorities or local permanent shop keepers.

We have to be careful of devils who play on sentiments of innocent even in most pious places.  Let us remember, even in mythology, devils are Gods’ neighbours!  After all, Ravan co-existed with Ram and Shiva.

Experienced and Written By: Badri Baldawa

Edited By : Meeta Kabra

Unusual Activity Around Reveals Unusual Facts!

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At the Bank of Ganges.  On the afternoon of 1st April 2014.

It was very hot to linger at the banks of the river.  Other than the sleeveless t-shirt and shorts I was wearing, I just had a towel and a handkerchief with me. I wet them in the river and covered my legs to cool them down.  The wet handkerchief on my head was a much needed relief.

It was still not good enough.  I had to move away from the bank to a place just above the steps of the ghat.  There was a large shade built for multi-purposes for protecting the visitors when the Sun is too harsh; when the rain is at its best, pleasant mood; when the wind is in Tandav Nritya mode (playing havoc like a dancing Shiva) and when ladies need privacy. Yet, you have a full view of the lively Ganges.

A simple looking gentleman came under the shade too.  I noticed him sitting on the floor with a bag.  He was busy in his own way and I was with my laptop.  After an hour or so I looked at him.  He had a small hand operated heater, blower, scissor and some reshaped empty mineral water bottles.  His belongings made me curious.

I sat next to him and had to ask him what he was busy with.  He picked up the reshaped bottle and said, “look, I have made Lord Ganesh out of empty mineral bottles.” He had indeed impressively done that by reshaping two mineral bottles.

Then he showed me a paper roll and started blowing it from one end to make a pleasant sound.  It was made out of waste paper lying around.  He had made a lantern by blowing out of another mineral water bottle.   He had a nice strong shopping bag made out of multiple layers of raddi newspapers.  He had a tennis ball with an elastic string tied in such a way that you could play tennis by yourself, sitting anywhere, indoor or outdoor.    They were all biodegradable.  No pins, no chemical paste were used for these items.

It was all amazing.  I was curious to know who he was.  He was 73-year old Mr. Iyer from Santacruz, Mumbai.  He was tennis coach to National Champions like Gaurav Natekar and Asif Ismail.  He trained 21 State level tennis players, attended 30 training centers and converted ball pickers to coaches.

Not just that.  Mr. Iyer was a wizard in use of waste.  He was holder of Limca Book of Record 2004 as “Recycle Wizard”.  He was winner of national and international awards for import substitution.  He set up world’s first “Best from Waste” museum in Mumbai.    He has an exhibition hall where some of his artistic items are exhibited in Santa Cruz, Mumbai.

I thanked myself for having taken the initiative to inter-act with Mr. Iyer.  Had I not done that, I would have missed out on learning some amazing facts about a person, who otherwise would have been for me, one of those men passed by.   An extraordinary simple personality – Mr. Iyer.

A Lesson learnt.  Never miss out on getting the details if one finds someone involved in a “different” unusual activity. There is always something we don’t know and can learn.

Written: Badri Baldawa

Edited: Meeta Kabra

The “Soonya” state of Mind at Ganges

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1 April 2014.  I was at theof River Ganges, at Rishikesh, Vaan Prastha Ghat.

People from various philosophies visit this place.  Rush of believers flood for Ganga Snaan (a dip in the Holy Ganges). After my Yoga class in the morning from 6.30 to 8.00am, I had my breakfast and came down to the ghat for a dip.

Nice, clean water.   Chilling, cold, freshly diluted ice. The current was strong.  It was difficult to stand even on the bank as you feel that you would drown with the strong flow. Heavy iron chains are provided at this bank so that one can hold the chain tight and take a dip in the river.  Still you are afraid that you will drown.

Normally, I dip myself 3 or 5 times in the Ganges.  But I recollected an interesting experience my niece Nirmala (Naru) narrated.  She went for her bath at Rishikesh, Geeta Bhavan #1 ghat.  Close to her was a lady from Eastern Europe taking her dips too.  As is her habit, Naru started talking to the European lady in English.  The lady replied in Hindi and told Naru ‘Dubki poora lena.  Shir aur shir ke hairs bhi bhigana”  (Take the dip properly, your head and hair should go in too). Naru was surprised with her reply in Hindi and said: “Kaan meh problem.” (I have a problem in my ears).  The lady said ‘haan kaan meh paani jata.’ (Yes, the water does go in the ears.)

After 5 dips Naru stopped.  The lady said, “Nahin Nahin, gyarah dubki lena.’  (No-no, you should dip yourself 11 times). When Naru said it was enough for her, the lady insisted, “nahin, nahin 11 lena.  Mai count karegi .”  (no-no, 11 times. I will count.) She forced Naru to continue and started counting dips “six raam raam, “seven raam raam” and continued till 11 dips were completed.

Today, I was afraid that I had come alone. I double checked to see that I am  safe.  I held the chain with as strong a grip as possible.  I had my first dip, second and third.  Normally I feel satisfied, rather I feel tired and complete at 3 dips. But then I recollected the instance Naru had narrated. I took 11 dips!

I do not know whether there is any logic behind this count of 11, but the last 5-6 dips gave me a thrill and pleasure which I have never experienced before. I didn’t know if there was anything surviving or existing in this universe. It was absolute “Soonya” (zero) state of mind.  Nothing but energy flowed in.

It is amazing how devoted foreigners are to learn, understand our traditions and implement them.  Some of them study our traditions and philosophy deep enough, that they are qualified to teach us our own traditions and learning from our scriptures.

Thereafter every time I was in for river bath, after The Float, I took 11 dips and enjoyed getting  in “Soonya” state of mind.

Author: Badri Baldawa

Edited: Meeta Kabra

Ganges – the Positive Energy

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April 2014 takes me to the Ghat (banks) of River Ganga at Rishikesh.

As I was changing my clothes at the steps of the Parmarth Niketan Ghat, after bathing in the Ganges, I noticed a foreign couple stepping in on the Ghat. The guy was well built. His lady friend was sitting on the steps while he went forward for a dip in the Ganges.

I thought of warning him about the strong current and that it might not be safest to enter without holding a chain. As he was about to enter his back was towards me. I saw his fair-coloured back full of tattoos. A prominent one amongst them was a large “OM”. I don’t know why, the large tattoo on his back made me feel that there was no need to warn him, as somehow that made him mature enough to understand it. Instead, I chose to watch him enter the river without holding onto the chain. Mentally, I started working out what would be the best way to save him, just in case he is pulled by the current.

He entered the river and its strong flow of water. He balanced well for a few steps into the river. He stood facing East, the direction from which the Ganges was flowing towards him. He bent forward, put his feet back and in a matter of seconds took a sleeping position. He went under the water level a couple of times, each time for a minute or two. His head was towards the East.

Clean, clear transparent water was flowing over his head, back, hips, and legs; flowing away from his feet. I had been observing over the last few days, the different ways in which people took a dip in the super-cold Ganges. However, the feelings was different as I saw this man takes his dips.

After the dip, the guy walked up to sit next to his companion. I could not resist and disturbed him.

The first obvious question was, “Where are you from?” He said “I belong to the entire world. I have no permanent home to say this is where I come from and this is where I live.” For the last seven years he had traveled between Russia, Nepal and India, most of which he had spent in Nepal and India. Though he liked Nepal, he liked India the most and would prefer and love to stay in India.” To me, it looked like he was born in one of the countries from the Soviet Union. I would call him Russian for easy identification.

Just at that time, someone, a simple Indian with his family, who was also keenly watching this foreigner with an “OM” tattoo, interrupted.

He asked the foreigner, “Excuse me. Can I ask you where did you get this Om tattoo?” The foreigner replied, “It is irrelevant, where I got it done. What is relevant is the presence of Om vibrations on my back all the time”.

The Indian said his interest was to know whether it is a temporary marked OM or etched permanently. He said “Nothing is permanent in the world, but this ‘Om’ is. This will be with me as long as my body lives. Om will stay as long as my body stays in this universe.”

The Indian said “I have some expertise and knowledge in Tattoos. I cannot believe how artistic and beautiful this one is. Origin of Om is in India, but such quality tattooing in my opinion cannot be done anywhere in India. If at all it has been done in India, I would be interested to know where”.

The visitor replied, “One of my friends in Russia is a tattoo artist and we were together for some time. He had tattooed in Russia.” He further explained, “In their early literature, Russians had reference of Om in their meditation. Om is also well-accepted and respected in Russia. There are many similarities in the Russian and Indian cultures.”

The discussions then developed to how the Russians know so well about “OM” whereas it is supposed to have originated and developed from India. The Russian said “OM” is equally well-known in Russian countries as per their scriptures (equivalent to the vedas).

They went on to discuss that long time back, India and Russia did not have a border between them. Only later, politics separated them. Hence most of the culture and traditions between India and Russia are the same. It is because the cultures, attitudes, feelings and thinking are similar that Indians and Russians are so fond of each other.

I remembered my early years when India, under Lal Bahadur Shastri and Indira Gandhi as the Prime Ministers, was very close to Russia. During war against Pakistan and China, while super power USA supported the latter, the other super power Russia supported India. That Russia might enter the game to support India kept USA away from joining Pakistan and China.

As these thoughts crossed my mind, I asked the Russian what I really wanted to ask, “I really get worried and unstable when I enter the strong water current of the river. How come you could manage so easily and reach a comfortable position.” He said it was easy. The water had a high current flow but was not very deep. He bent forward so that he could hold some stones. Once he got that hold, it was all easy. He said he lied down for a purpose. I asked him “purpose?”. What could be the purpose except that people go down to take a dip in anticipation of washing their sins and going towards Moksha. His answer was surprising.

He said, “The flow of water is nothing but energy. More so with River Ganga. Amongst water flows, it is a proven fact that River Ganges has the highest flow of energy. So when I lie down in the water with head towards the inflow of water current, the energy is passing through the top of my head, through the face, neck, shoulders, arms, back, spine, legs and finally through my feet. By the time water passes through the feet, the entire body is purified; the negatives drain out and new positive energy flows in the body. This is the energy which gives ‘life’ to the body which otherwise is just a skeleton.”

Author: Badri Baldawa
Editor:  Meeta Kabra