Road to London #1 – Another World Record For Me?

I am excited!

I am privileged to have a life partner who has always been with me – from social responsibilities to simple dinners out to super adventures like a trek around Mt. Kailash, a cruise to South Pole, a driving trip through Iceland and lots more.  Together we established the record of being the first Indians to land at North Pole (i.e. 90° North) in 2009.

Of late, Pushpa’s knees have not been able to cope with the strain that trekking brings.  But painful knees cannot keep thrill and excitement at bay.  So I thought, till such time she is able to convince her knees to support her for treks, let us go for driving trips.

It is not unusual for me to take driving trips within the country, like the one I am about to set off for next week – 2,500 kms into South India and back. This is an endurance test drive for something coming up soon!

Our next adventure is a 60-day driving trip from Mumbai to London – 14 countries, 18,000 kms and 9 months of preparation.

It is a route that takes you to West by first going East. We will start with cutting across the Indian states of MP, UP, West Bengal, Sikkim, Assam, Nagaland and Manipur.  This will lead us to Myanmar.  We would then drive through China, Kyrgyzstan, Uzbekistan, Kazakhstan, Russia (right up to Moscow), Belarus, Poland, Germany, the Netherlands, Belgium, France, and finally the UK.

As you can imagine, the journey will be through off-beat tracks, rugged mountains, deserts and sand dunes, dense forests and snow passes, high altitudes and heritage sites, and of course some highways and city drives.  We will cross iron bridges in Myanmar as well as pass through the silk route in Central Asia. Believe it or not, we are looking forward to the various challenges we will face driving through such varied landscape.

This might just be a World Record – the senior most person (72 years) to make this journey (Waiting for confirmation from Limca Records®).

Just wanted to share my excitement with you!

Written : Badri Baldawa

Edited  : Meeta Kabra

Drive Through Iceland 11: Natural Spas and Lagoons

In continuation of earlier blog DTI 10: Snow Mobile, James Bond Style

There were various beautiful lava rock formations. These rock formations also formed large caves, as large as an acre each.  Asphalt pillars were also seen here.  They were the by-product of lava flow during eruptions.  Though they were natural, it looked as if they were carved out of a large rocks.

It was then time for us to visit the Skogar waterfall.  It is known for the enormous force of the water. We climbed about half a kilometer on a steep mountain adjacent to the waterfall, to watch the source of waterfall.  It was cold and raining, but it did not stop us from trekking.

We stayed over night in a guest house owned by Mr. Uxi who was a very popular chef in one of the five star hotels in the Capital.  We enjoyed our stay there and so also the vegetarian breakfast he cooked specially for us.

Hberagardi Hot Springs 2015-08-13B

Hberagardi Natural Hot Springs

More natural wonders were to follow.  There is a specific hot spring belt running from Keflavik airport and it cuts across the country.  Geysers and spots where boiling water bubbles out, is common on this belt. On the penultimate day, it was time for us to visit a small town Hveragerdi, a town with countless natural hot water springs.    We could see smoke coming out of the hot springs all over the hill town.  They were just a few yards away from each other.  I guess some of the private houses had natural hot springs in their own backyard.

We climbed half the mountain to see the various hot springs.  At the top of the mountain there was a natural hot spring lagoon.  However the weather turned adverse with sub-zero temperatures, wind and rain, we did not go up to the lagoon.

We were in the coastal area which was created by lava flows.The lava had even extended to the coastal area of the country by 5 kilometers.  We drove through volcano eruptions through the trip.  While we were passing through the lava land, there were heavy dusty storms.  The wind was so strong that I found it difficult to control the steering wheel.  I guess the lighter vehicles would not have stood to that storm and would have flown away.

DSC04943B

Lava fields, Iceland

Lava sand, lava eruptions and lava mountains – it is not an exaggeration to say that this is what makes Iceland.

These were completely isolated kachhaa roads.  There were occasions when we felt we have lost the way.  I started suspecting the accuracy of the GPS as we were left at a location surrounded by lava mountains and dusty winds with no one in sight. It was a great relief when we finally reached the main road leading us to Blue Lagoon, the last of our stops.

Blue Lagoon is the master of luxurious spas.  It is a lagoon, a large, open water body flowing from natural hot springs.  The pool water was a lovely, uniform marine blue.  The water was warm and at some places, even warmer.  We reserved this site as the last point of our tour.  After a hectic week around Iceland, these were well-deserved relaxing few hours.

Blue Lagoon 3B

Blue Lagoon, Iceland

Nishi, our 8-year old granddaughter was an entertainer and inspiration in all the activities, whether it was trekking on rough terrains, climbing the mountains, entering hot water springs in freezing temperature, glacier walking or snow mobiling.  It was good we had a child like her with us, to keep the child in us alive.

In earlier years, when I imagined about Iceland, I expected to see ice and snow all around; it was Iceland after all!  However, that’s not the case. I wonder whether a few more eruptions would make ‘Iceland’ into ‘Lavaland’.

Our wonderful trip had come to a close. A rich, fulfilling week later, we returned the vehicle and were at the airport to catch our flight back.

Experienced and Written By: Badri Baldawa

Edited By : Meeta Kabra

Drive Through Iceland 10: Snow Mobile, James Bond Style

                                        In continuation of earlier blog DTI 9: Icebergs and Glacier Walk

While planning my Iceland itinerary, I surely wanted to visit Katla volcano glacier as well as experience the snow mobile thrill.  the earlier night’s 125 kilometer drive Westward, day 6 was the most exciting day of the trip for me.

Snow Mobiling is not commonly available in the world.   Out of the available ones, Iceland is supposed to be the best of all.  This is where many famous films like  the Bond film and others were shot.

Various sources had mentioned that advance booking is a must for snow mobiling. We booked ourselves for snow-mobiling, the earlier day and the earliest slot available was at 12.30 PM.

When we reached the booking office, I learnt that, for snow mobiling,  we would be taken to a glacier top.   I expected that.  But what I did not expect was that the concerned glacier in this case would be the one formed on the top of Katla Volcano. This is one of most scenic and romantic glaciers in the world.  That was where I wanted it to be.  Some times lady luck works in your favor too! Two of my ambitions were to come true in one stroke!

Snow Mobiling on Katla

Snow Mobiling on Katla Glacier

Snow Mobiling

Snow Mobiling

We had a special one-piece-gear covering us from top to bottom, heavy gloves, boots and helmet.  It felt like we were astronauts in space suits.

A special mountain vehicle took us to the top of Katla glacier and we were soon seated in snowmobiles!

Snowmobiles are two-seater bikes. They don’t have enclosures on the sides or the top.  It has two skis in the front and two wheels at rear.   For most of the fun time, Pushpa and I drover together with her sitting behind.  Nishi shared another with the instructor.

We drove like James Bond for 2 hours and 20 kilometers on Katla Glacier! Ascending and descending, driving on a uneven snow surface, curving right and left, set the heartbeats ablaze!

It was difficult to accept that we were on the top of Katla glacier, formed by 2010-11 volcano eruption.   We were not just standing, we were snow mobiling like in action movies.  Surely a first for me. For a pause, when we were standing in the center of the glacier, it gave a different sort of fear when the instructor told us that as per the seismographic studies, the land and ice below us was expected to explode again any day now!

After snow mobiling, we had enough time to visit Dyrholaey. Puffins, the beautiful birds are found at Dyrholaey coastal area in South Iceland. Puffins, the lovely seabirds are synonymous with Iceland. They are normally seen for 3 months till mid-July. Though it was off season, there were thousands of them flying across.  They were either enjoying floating in the cold seawater or gossiping on a pinnacle like stone formation.

Puffin

Puffin – Pic from Google

Nishi was quite excited about the puffins.  She wanted a closer look.    But I still wanted to try if we could find anything closer than we had at Dyrholaey. The next day we went to two other places where Puffins were known to be sighted.  At the sea coast of Vik, we found Puffins flying around the mountain. Some of them flew together  in hundreds, as if to show their camaraderie.  Some were in a bow and arrow formation!

Black Sand Beaches, Vik, Iceland

Black Sand Beaches, Vik

Our hunt, to see the puffins from a closer angle, continued.  15 kilometers further down we visited another place where the birds were known to be closer.  They were resting in groups on the mountain reefs.

Then we understood that the puffins can be sighted only from a small distance and  cannot be watched from as close a distance as the penguins we saw in Antarctica, South Pole.

Vik coastal area is also famous for its black sand beaches, again an outcome of volcanic eruptions.

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To be contd……………

Written : Badri Baldawa

Edited  : Meeta Kabra

Drive Through Iceland 8: Lava Mountains

                                                In continuation of earlier blog DTI 7: Tough Day Ahead……

Day 3 and we made an early start at 7 AM.  We reached the garage at 8.25 AM where the technician was fixing another tyre.  He was up and working at 7AM, on an Sunday morning!  He took us up next and we were all set in 25 minutes.  He had to leave to attend to another car stuck in a river stream about 30 kilometers away.  Thank God, the tyre hadn’t torn or split. Else, it would have meant another 300 kilometers to find a new tyre.

Hekla Volcano

Hekla Volcano

On the way, we passed by Hekla again, a beautiful, curvy, snow-clad lava mountain.  It looked like a large ship turned upside down.  It stretched for about 25 kilometers and was high enough to be noticed from a distance of 50 kilometers.

Hekla erupts every 10 years and last erupted in January 2010. The Icelandik Government allows visitors to climb to the top.  But they also warn travellers of an imminent eruption. After a point where an extremely rough F road ends, Hekla volcano top can be trekked – an 18 kilometer trek over the mountain and glacier, to get to the top.

At the beginning of the day, with one flat wheel, I could not have risked driving on that road.   We had to skip this trek and had to satisfy ourselves by watching it from the base.

We got to Seljalandsfoss in time to catch the mountain bus for Thorsmork, one of the most popular visitor site in the interiors.  This place could be reached either by a full fledge powerful 4wd like a Landcruiser or by special mountain bus.  The mountain bus has tyres that are as tall as me – certainly more than 5.5 feet and has a ground clearance of over 2.5 feet.

Pushpa-Nishi at Katla Volcano base

Lagoon 5-6 years back – Now lava land as in pic

On the way, we could see the place that was popular, about 5-6 years ago for its lagoons surrounded by snow.  The volcanic eruptions had thrown out huge burning stones, which formed large mountains.  The lava exposed to the cold temperature on the top formed ice glaciers.  The water at the base of the mountain, now has lava sand and stones.

It was a wise decision to have taken the mountain bus to Thorsmork as there were quite a few unbridged deep river crossings on the way.

Two kilometer climb to the top of the mountain at Thormork led us to a beautiful view of multiple glaciers around us. It was like a mini Kala Pathar, located near Mt Everest base camp, where one could see snow-clad mountains all around you.  We could see 3 ice glaciers, next to each other, making for a panorama of about 180 degrees.

Seljalandsfoss waterfall3After the visit to Thormork, it was time for Seljalandsfoss waterfall, a giant fall that drops at least 250 feet, from the top of a cave.  The cave can be reached at about half the height of the waterfall. A climb to the cave took us behind the waterfall. We repeatedly circled around the waterfall and the point at which the water hits the floor with great force.  As you can imagine, the circles were superb fun.

This waterfall became Nishi’s favorite.   On our way back, we had to pass by this waterfall again.  Nishi made sure that we trekked around the waterfall a couple more times.

140 kilometers later, we reached our night halt. We slept with the excitement of a glacier walk that lay ahead the next day.

To be contd……………

Written : Badri Baldawa

Edited  : Meeta Kabra

Drive Through Iceland 5: Teething Troubles

 

Lava Land

Lava Land – Iceland

This is In continuation of earlier blog DTI 4: Fun begins

Wife and child in the car, navigation not working, phone disabled, hectic first-day schedule which started at 3 AM with a flight from London, no international roaming on my Indian phone.   To top it off, we were all hungry too.  We were stuck.  It was a terrible beginning.  I didn’t feel as smart as I did a few hours ago!

We were to have lunch in the capital city.  But this navigation failure upset our plans.  I thought of my son, Anand, who had told me to hire a car navigator irrespective of maps on apps.  But I thought it a waste and unnecessary. I looked for a branch of the car rental company to hire a navigator.  But itthere was none closeby.

At last, I could see an Icelander who seemed in a rush to get into his car and leave.  I almost  forcibly held him back and explained my problem!

Fortunately, he was helpful.  He volunteered to escort us till we got out of the complicated city roads. We had to drop the lunch plan and just follow the guy till wherever he desired to take us.   He left us at access point to route 1.  I was already in an isolated lava land.  Fine, what now?

Good, a ray of hope!  There…. I could see a  fast-food counters attached to the gas station.  Atleast one problem in sight of getting resolved.  While my two ladies had a bite, I went to the young store-owner and explained my SIM-troubles to him. He tried his best to start the card, but could not.   He was SIM card vendor too!  As a last resort, I asked to buy a new SIM.  He said, “Hold on.” He spoke to the Simminn help center in Icelandic for about 5 minutes and returned my phone saying, “there you go.”

It was an unusual smile.  Was he asking me to to go away since he had other customers waiting for him?  He hadn’t behaved like a rude person. After a glance at my worried face, he took the phone back and asked, “where you going next?”  He set the Google map for my next destination and said, “Did you activate the card by speaking to the company?  It was not activated”. I could not believe that my cell screen showing an active google map!

Being wiser now, for safety,  I wanted to buy another SIM card. But the vendor refused. He smiled to say, “I guarantee, you will have no problem with the SIM you have”.  What then was the problem earlier?

The label on the SIM card packet instructed to send a message to the service provider in order to activate it.  What they meant was you had to call them and give them a message by talking to them, and not just send a SMS.  You had to know the local language for it.

The  vendor at the airport was too busy and excused himself by saying “it is simple, just fix the card and it will start working”.  It did start, but for a trial few minutes to allow for an activation call.  When the first navigation route showed up, I thought it was activated, based on the SMS I sent them. I am the smartest, you know now!  Or is it silliest?

Nishi says, " I am fine"

Nishi expressing I am enjoying

While we went through this frustration for a few hours, I was worried that Nishi who was new to such problems might regret having joined us, on the very first day. When I expressed my regret for this inconvenience, she responded, something like saying “I am fine.  Nana, please don’t worry about me.  I am enjoying every moment.”

To be contd…………...

Written : Badri Baldawa

Edited  : Meeta Kabra

Drive Through Iceland 6: Of Geysers and Waterfalls

This is In continuation of earlier blog DTI 5: Teething Troubles

Iceland 65% of Population in Red marked area (Courtesy-Amazing maps)

Iceland 65% of Population in Red marked area (Courtesy-Amazing maps)

Once out of the capital city, roads were completely isolated. Iceland is a sparsely populated country.  2.2 lakh people out of the 3.2, stay in the capital.  The rest are spread across an area of 1 lakh sq km. Get that? The population density is 1 person per 1 sq km. To put that in perspective, Mumbai’s population density is 30,000 per sq km!

Though there were just two-lane roads, an average speed of 90km/hr was easy. Lava fields spread on either side as far as the eyes could see. It was a pleasure to drive on highways and the main routes alike.  But, most of the time I drove on gravel roads – single roads with a lot of loose sand.

Iceland Driving5The information on the Internet had scared me into believing that driving in Iceland would be a tough task.  But I tell you; none of these were as bad as the roads leading to remote villages in India or even post-monsoon city roads!   As long as one does not venture on ‘F’ highland roads or if one sticks to driving on metal and gravel roads, even a medium size  regular vehicle is good enough.  These roads are like a highway drive for those of us used to driving on Indian roads.

As we lost quite a few hours resolving the GPS problem, we had to skip a volcano mountain on the way.   We reached Thingvellir National Park.  This is where the world’s first parliament started in 930AD.  Though there are just a symbolic benches on a brownish rock platborm at the site now, parlliament day is celebrated here every year.

Thingvellir, Iceland. World's first Parliament (Rock platform)

Thingvellir, Iceland. World’s first Parliament (Rock platform)

Thingvellir is also a geological wonder in the world.  There are tall natural-rock walls of the two continents.  One was the edge of American continent and the other was that of Euroasia.   There are tectonic plates of two continents – America and Europe – which could be seen at once.  We were walking in between the two walls.   Iceland is probably the only place above sea level where two major tectonic plates can be seen.

Tectonic Rift of two continents - America and Europe

Tectonic Rift of two continents – America and Europe

They have been drifting away from each other by half an inch every year. The boundaries of these plates are zones of tectonic activity, where volcanic eruptions tend to occur.

After a drive of another 60km to the East, we saw a large smoke-like jet blowing up at a distance of 8-10km.  It subsided in less than a minute.  We wondered if that was the geyser we were looking for.  After about 5 minutes, another jet erupted and settled. Yes, it was the world famous Strokkur Geysir.

Strokkur Geysir, Iceland - Throwing Boiling Water 35-40ft High, every 5-10 minutes

Strokkur Geysir, Iceland

The word ‘geyser’ seems to be derived from this Geysir at Strokkur.  It is a unique natural fountain in the world. The underground pressure is so high that at a frequency of 5-10 minutes, the geyser gushes boiling hot water to a height of 40 to 60 feet.  This has been constant for decades. There were many smaller natural geysers all around.  They were unfenced and we could walk around unrestrictedly. Ofcourse we had to keep ourselves away to ensure that we do get caught under the hot boiling water gushed out of the geysers.

I would have liked to watch  Strokkur Geysir for hours.  However, we forced ourselves to leave as we were looking forward to proceed to another beauty spot on the face of Iceland, Gulfoss waterfall

By evening it began to get cold. Iceland has sub-polar, oceanic climate.  It has cold winters and cool summers.  It was the month of August which is their peak summer.  At the peak of their summer, the temperature was near freezing point,  – 2 to 7degC!  It rains and shines alternating every 2-3 days.  We carried normal, warm as well as waterproof clothes with us.   At places, it was terribly windy, strong enough to blow away our car into one of the lava valleys.

Our next target was to visit Gulfoss waterfalls.  I read a lot about the beauty of Gulfoss, which was supposedly not too far from Strokkur.  We were disappointed when a professional guide at Strokkur told us that there was no waterfall, whatsoever, in the vicinity.

We took a U-turn.  But then I recollected that I had certainly seen pictures and read about the presence of Gulfoss waterfall in that area. I checked my notes. A little tinkering with Google maps confirmed the presence of a waterfall in that area.  We DSC04884 followed the map and after a drive of about 10-12km, suddenly, we spotted a beautiful site to our right, a wide spread gushing waterfall – the panoramic Gulfoss waterfall.  The rushing water dropped and flowed from one stage to another, in 3 stages.

It is difficult to describe its beauty.  It could be compared to that of Niagara in Canada/USA and Iguassu waterfalls in Brazil/Argentina!

After a satisfactory, even if hectic first day, we drove about 70 kilometers to reach our destination for the night by 7 PM. Though isolated, it was a nice, large, well-designed compact room – a double bed, a bunker bed and a fully equipped kitchen.

Had we returned from Strokkur directly without visiting Gulfoss waterfall, we would have missed a wonderful spot! Notes and planning for the win!

                                                                                                     To be contd……………

Written : Badri Baldawa

Edited  : Meeta Kabra

Drive Through Iceland 4: Fun Begins!

Map of Iceland

Map of Iceland

This is In continuation of earlier blog DTI 3 Understanding the Logistics……….

Rental for a car navigator was $140 for a week. Online reviews said that Simminn telecom’s SIM card would be reliable even on mountain tops, valleys and glaciers. So, I skipped the independent car navigator and purchased a SIM card with 1GB data and 500 free calls for US$ 25.  I fixed the SIM card in the extra phone I had. The label on the pack instructed me to send a message to the company to activate it.  I sent the SMS and the navigation started working for my first stop, Reykjavik, the capital city.

Equipped with car, guided by the sim navigation, snacks and provisions duly stacked up, everything was turning out as per plan. I am smart – I thought!

Reykjavik is popular for its night life and pubs.

Hallgrimska Church, Iceland

Hallgrimska Church, Iceland

Since, our focus was to explore the exceptional geographical sites, we skipped the entertainment events in the capital. Instead, we used our time to drive through the city roads.  We visited Church Hallgrímskirkja, also the tallest building in the city.This Church has fascinating shapes and forms.  The church features a mechanical pipe organ system standing at an 50 feet high and weighing all of 25 tons.  This is driven by 4 manuals and 5275 pipes, all designed to reproduce powerful notes capable of filling the huge and holy space with a range of tones.

Pipe organ in cathedral

Pipe organ in Cathedral

India, where even the remotest of roads have enough people strolling by eager to guide passers-by, the roads in this city were deserted. We did not know where we were, let alone know which direction to move towards. I grew restless for many a reason.

I had an idea! A solution seemed plausible. Though it might be expensive,  I could use my other phone which had my Indian SIM card.  I switched it on.  ‘No service’ it showed!  How silly of me! I forgot to activate international roaming for the card. Oh wait! My wife had her phone with an Indian SIM.   ‘No service’ either.   Obviously, even if it was her phone, it would not work without international roaming activated.  Every time I leave India, I get our phones activated for international roaming.  But I had missed on doing it this time! What a blunder. We were lost.

The fun had truly begun.

To be contd……………

Written : Badri Baldawa

Edited  : Meeta Kabra

Drive Through Iceland 3 : Understanding the Logistics

 

Hekla Ice Glacier, Iceland

Katla Ice Glacier, Iceland

This is in continuation of earlier Blog: 2 Preplanning………..

Food – How do vegetarians survive?
We are strict vegetarians.  Pushpa, my wife was on a month-long shraavan fast, when she has only one meal a day. Unsure of what we would get for lunch, it would be best to have a heavy breakfast before leaving the hotel.  With enough cereal, bread, nuts and/or fruits for breakfast, even a sandwich is usually adequate for lunch. If breakfast and lunch are taken care of, dinner would depend on the vegetarian options we had on the given day.

As soon as we arrived at the airport, we picked up some snacks, bread and juice from a super market located right at the airport and went for replenishment wherever we got an opportunity. Considering  vegetarians options would be few, this would be our emergency backup. Water was taken care of since Iceland has the purest possible tap water!

As it turned out on this trip, our attempts at restaurants were not encouraging since they carried a heavy non-vegetarian odour.  We ended up back in the hotel’s restaurant or have the packed food we had with us – theplas, fruits, chutney, pickles and yoghurt. Nishi was happy as she would invariably get pasta and ketchup or sauce – very much to her taste. The last day was a feast because we got nice Italian pizza!  In any case, it was understood amongst the three of us that the main focus of our trip was to enjoy Iceland.  Quality of food was more or less irrelevant.

Cash or Card?

Visa and Master Credit cards were accepted everywhere in Iceland, even in the smallest of shops at the most isolated places.  Though I carried some local currency, it was not really necessary

Shopping was in restricted range as everything in Iceland is very expensive.  Practically everything is imported.

Going places

Iceland’s public transport system, especially the mountain buses, can get you to more or less all the places you would like to visit. But, I wanted to drive myself.  Besides, self drive would surely be more convenient and save a lot of time. I hired a car right from Keflavik airport –  a 4-wheel drive version of the Nissan CX5.

Iceland is shaped like a human heart!   Ring route No.1, a highway, goes around the country’s circumference, along the coast.  Most tourists with 8-10 days at hand, take this well-surfaced highway.  But, Route 1 misses out on a lot of interesting, though difficult to reach sites located in the interiors.

In August, the day time lasts about 18 hours from 5 AM to 11PM.  My average daily plan included a 3-4 hour drive and 5-6 hours of sight-seeing.  The plan was to start after breakfast at 8-9 AM, finish by 4-6 PM and then relax the rest of the evening.  We had enough cushion for any breakdowns or emergencies.

Since we had a child with us, we restricted the driving time to just 3-4 hours a day. That was a mistake.  Nishi enjoyed every moment of the experience, be it food, drive or trek. The so-called child, Nishi, had more energy than both of us and she would be absolutely fresh for nana-masti or a pillow-fight at the end of the day.  Had I properly assessed her level of energy earlier, I would have included a few more interesting places in my itinerary!

Contd as DTI 4 – fun begins…………….

Written : Badri Baldawa

Edited  : Meeta Kabra

 

Drive Through Iceland 11: Natural Spas and Lagoons

In continuation of earlier blog DTI 10: Snow Mobile, James Bond Style

There were various beautiful lava rock formations. These rock formations also formed large caves, as large as an acre each.  Asphalt pillars were also seen here.  They were the by-product of lava flow during eruptions.  Though they were natural, it looked as if they were carved out of a large rocks.

It was then time for us to visit the Skogar waterfall.  It is known for the enormous force of the water. We climbed about half a kilometer on a steep mountain adjacent to the waterfall, to watch the source of waterfall.  It was cold and raining, but it did not stop us from trekking.

We stayed over night in a guest house owned by Mr. Uxi who was a very popular chef in one of the five star hotels in the Capital.  We enjoyed our stay there and so also the vegetarian breakfast he cooked specially for us.

Hberagardi Hot Springs 2015-08-13B

Hberagardi Natural Hot Springs

More natural wonders were to follow.  There is a specific hot spring belt running from Keflavik airport and it cuts across the country.  Geysers and spots where boiling water bubbles out, is common on this belt. On the penultimate day, it was time for us to visit a small town Hveragerdi, a town with countless natural hot water springs.    We could see smoke coming out of the hot springs all over the hill town.  They were just a few yards away from each other.  I guess some of the private houses had natural hot springs in their own backyard.

We climbed half the mountain to see the various hot springs.  At the top of the mountain there was a natural hot spring lagoon.  However the weather turned adverse with sub-zero temperatures, wind and rain, we did not go up to the lagoon.

We were in the coastal area which was created by lava flows.The lava had even extended to the coastal area of the country by 5 kilometers.  We drove through volcano eruptions through the trip.  While we were passing through the lava land, there were heavy dusty storms.  The wind was so strong that I found it difficult to control the steering wheel.  I guess the lighter vehicles would not have stood to that storm and would have flown away.

DSC04943B

Lava fields, Iceland

Lava sand, lava eruptions and lava mountains – it is not an exaggeration to say that this is what makes Iceland.

These were completely isolated kachhaa roads.  There were occasions when we felt we have lost the way.  I started suspecting the accuracy of the GPS as we were left at a location surrounded by lava mountains and dusty winds with no one in sight. It was a great relief when we finally reached the main road leading us to Blue Lagoon, the last of our stops.

Blue Lagoon is the master of luxurious spas.  It is a lagoon, a large, open water body flowing from natural hot springs.  The pool water was a lovely, uniform marine blue.  The water was warm and at some places, even warmer.  We reserved this site as the last point of our tour.  After a hectic week around Iceland, these were well-deserved relaxing few hours.

Blue Lagoon 3B

Blue Lagoon, Iceland

Nishi, our 8-year old granddaughter was an entertainer and inspiration in all the activities, whether it was trekking on rough terrains, climbing the mountains, entering hot water springs in freezing temperature, glacier walking or snow mobiling.  It was good we had a child like her with us, to keep the child in us alive.

In earlier years, when I imagined about Iceland, I expected to see ice and snow all around; it was Iceland after all!  However, that’s not the case. I wonder whether a few more eruptions would make ‘Iceland’ into ‘Lavaland’.

Our wonderful trip had come to a close. A rich, fulfilling week later, we returned the vehicle and were at the airport to catch our flight back.

Experienced and Written By: Badri Baldawa

Edited By : Meeta Kabra

Drive Through Iceland 1: Setup

I recently had a very exciting and educative driving trip to Iceland. There is many a thing I want to share. I will be publishing my experience in a series. Here is the first in this series – how it all came about.

Jokulson Icerberg4

Why Iceland?

On 6 May 2015 I was set to leave for Trek to Annapoorna Base Camp in Nepalese Himalayan range.  Air ticket, insurance, expenses all paid.  As usual, my baggage was ready duly packed a month in advance!  Never mind, though, my family members make a joke out of it!  All items on my checklist ticked.  Only a thorough recheck a day before leaving, was pending.

About 10 days to go, my enthusiasm and excitement was at its peak for this trek. On 25 April 2015, post lunch, as I switched on the TV, “Severe earth-quake in Nepal” was the breaking news banner.  Most unfortunate.  News followed that the earthquake was of severe intensity and some of the villages around the mountain I was to trek had completely got devastated. Rescue operations were on.  Incoming commercial flights were closed. Tourism in Nepal came to a standstill.  My trekking trip got cancelled.  My efforts to visit Nepal to join the rescue and aid operations did not get positive response.

I did not unpack my bag; it was still intact lying near the life-size window at my bedroom.  Every time I looked at the bag, I was asking myself, is there any interesting place I could go to?.

Just around that time, Seema, my daughter in UK was insisting that Nishi, my grand daughter, had holidays and Pushpa and me should stay with them for a few weeks.  I initially resisted as I felt it would be a stay without much of action!  Then I was reminded that it was over 2 years since I had seen Nishi.    Oh! there was a reason that I should visit UK.  Before I could think further about it, my son Anand, booked most comfortable tickets for us for 4 weeks stay in UK.   But I kept thinking, ha!  staying for 4 weeks without adventure?  Not entirely convincing!  Surely it could be better!

For me, leisure travel means not just relaxing in premium hotels or at home.  There has to be some unusual action or adventure; a stay in a mountain tent or a hut, in near freezing temperature or something where action is primary, comfort is secondary and food is tertiary. To keep myself fresh, I needed to have at least one such trip a year.

I reactivated all travel related ‘blocked’ email ids and started looking at these ‘junk’ emails, in case they have some suitable place to venture out.  One of the junk emails was tempting – a 4wd driving trip to Iceland in Nov 2015.

In Iceland, there have been regular lava eruptions.  From internet browsing, I realised that due to its volcanic origin, Iceland has features like gushing geysers, ice glaciers, snow-capped mountains, volcano craters, lava eruptions, natural hot water springs, sea shores, black sand beaches and staggering waterfalls – all these natural phenomenon at a very close proximity to each other,

Iceland sounded like an interesting and unusual place; different from the 50+ countries I‘ve visited.

Iceland is close to UK, just a 3-hour flight from London, “why not take off a week for Iceland out of my 4-week stay UK-trip?”  Also, August was supposed to be a good time to visit Iceland. But then, this would defeat the purpose of staying with Nishi. I wondered if Nishi would be travel with us to Iceland. I thought Nishi was a little too sophisticated to make a trip that could get uncomfortable. All of 8 years, little Nishi makes her own decisions.  When Seema checked with her, Nishi responded with an enthusiastic, “Yes”.  That’s it!

Decided.  Go out for UK for a month, sneak out time for Iceland!

To continue ———–Blog DTI:2: Pre-Planning

Experienced and Written By: Badri Baldawa

Edited By : Meeta Kabra